Time for Prints (or Trade for Prints or Test for Prints) is a term used in many online photography communities describing an arrangement between a model and a photographer. It is often abbreviated TFP. Instead of paying for each others services, the photographer agrees to provide the model a certain number of prints of the best photographs from the session and a limited license to use those prints, in return for a broad model release.

A variant of this arrangement is Time for CD or Trade for CD (TFCD). With TFCD, the selection of images is provided on a CD in lieu of prints. Similarly, with the ease and convenience of digital distribution of high resolution images, the term TF* has evolved, where it does not necessarily refer to a tangible CD or Printed image since the same accepted rules apply.

There are no "standard" terms for a TFP/TFCD shoot. Every photographer and model have preferences on how to arrange and execute the shoots. However, the following conventions are common:

* Model is responsible for wardrobe and makeup expenses.
* Photographer is responsible for any location permits or studio and equipment rental.
* Photographer is responsible for any print, CD media, and shipping costs.
* Each participant is responsible for their own transportation.
* Photographer will obtain a signed model release to use the photographs for portfolio, art print, or commercial purposes.
* Model will receive a license to use the photographs for their portfolio, comp card, and online portfolio.
* The photographer will choose the best photos to retouch and send to the model.
* The amount of retouching also varies by photographer.
* The total time to select, retouch, and send the photographs to the model can range from one week to several months.
* The make-up artist may request a small "kit fee" from the photographer or model to recover makeup costs.
* Themes and wardrobe requirements are arranged prior to the shoot by telephone, in person, or over email.
* Some photographers only provide low-resolution photos (for online posting), others provide high-quality photos for printing.
* The photographer may require that all photographs posted online include a watermark (to deter image theft) and attribution.
* The model cannot sell the photographs to any web site or submit them to magazine/online contests without permission.
* If the model is under 18, a parent is usually required to attend the shoot and sign the release.
* The photographer may have rules about whether the model can bring a guest and how the guest can participate in the shoot.

While some professional photographers and models arrange TFP/TFCD shoots for personal projects, these terms are only common among the participants of Internet modeling and photography communities. Instead, commercial and fashion agencies, photographers, and models use a test shoot (also referred to as a "model test" or simply "testing"). Test shoots differ from TFP/TFCD in important ways:

* They are usually arranged through the model's agency.
* The model does not sign a model release, but the photographer and model can use the photographs for portfolio purposes.
* For test shoots to build a model's book, the model generally compensates the photographer, make-up artist, and stylists for their time at a special rate for testing.
* In some cases, the model's agency may pay for the shoot out of the model's future earnings.
* For test shoots a photographer arranges to try an idea, the agency may provide the model at no cost in return for some shots for the model's book or feedback on a new model's ability.
* The styles of photography are generally commercial or editorial print--the same genres the participants shoot for clients.
* Test shoots are not used for glamour, art nude, casual portraits, or erotic/adult styles, since these offer no benefit to a commercial or fashion model's portfolio.

What is TFCD (time for CD)?
from the Models Guide

Basically the same as PFT, but the model receives digital images instead of prints. Increasingly popular for obvious reasons.

Aspiring models often believe that it is really attractive to receive a large number of images immediately after the shoot. Think again! Only the very inexperienced or the extremely naïve assume that it is a seductive proposal by default. In a portfolio, you want quality, not quantity.

There are some pitfalls that you want to watch out for:

It is not in your interest to receive a copy of every photograph taken. The photographer should take the time to edit the photos and only give you a selection of the best. You do not have the expertise to select the right images from a large collection.

Digital or print, a good photograph requires work after it has been taken - and I don't mean digital trickery on a mediocre picture. If you are presented with a CD immediately after the shoot, the photographer has not had the time to do any post-production work on the images (or could not be bothered or did not know how to).

No self-respecting photographer wants to release photos that are anything but perfect. From a large number of photographs taken during a shoot, only a few will meet the demanding criteria a photographer should impose on himself (or herself). Many photos from a shoot are just not good enough for a variety of reasons - technically, compositionally, pose-wise.

I know of people who think that just because a photograph is in focus and correctly exposed, it is a good photograph. Bless 'em.

If you are offered a copy of everything, you are working with a photographer who does not take (or does not know how to take) pride in his or her work. Not a good idea!

TFCD or PFT - which is better?
from Wolf's Resource Guide for Aspiring Models

You are an aspiring model, have been offered a "for time" photo shoot and have been given a choice of receiving prints or electronic images. Which should you choose?

TFCD - Time for CD - means that you receive a collection of images on a CD or by some other electronic means, such as download or e-mail. You can use electronic images on the Internet and on your PC, but you probably won't be able to create decent prints.

With PFT - Prints for Time - you receive prints on paper.
Whilst prints are still the quality choice for photographs, the model print portfolio has become largely redundant.

Today, all agencies will ask you to submit electronic images through their websites. If you are planning to become a freelance model, marketing yourself directly to photographers, you will also need to post images on the Internet.

For your career as a model, electronic images will provide more useful.

Prints may be (depending on the photographer) of an exquisite quality but will not be as useful in your marketing.

My advice is to choose electronic images (TFCD). In most cases, your photographer will be happy to sell you some prints at a discounted price.

Why do TFCD or PFT?
from the Models Guide

If you, the model, are in the process of building a portfolio, working for time will enable you to have work from different photographers in your portfolio. This is important to demonstrate your versatility as a model. Nobody wants a model who can only master one facial expression and one pose. It can also save you money.

Prints for time seems to work best for (aspiring) models who are committed to their work and who are able to express a photographer's and their own ideas. No photographer in the world can produce good results if you think that modelling only involves standing around and having your photograph taken.

I do PFT and TFCD for personal projects, to realise artistic work, to experiment with new ideas, equipment and materials, and - if you are very, very special - sometimes just for the fun of it.

It is important for you to realise that the photographer, too, wants to get something out of a prints for time shoot. The purpose of a prints for time shoot is not just to provide you with free photographs for your portfolio. The photographer will expect you to take the shoot seriously. Give it your best.

Of course, you will get free photographs that you can use in your portfolio. I also usually do some shots that I know to work well in a model's portfolio, no matter whatever other ideas I may be working on.

The real cost of a PFT or TFCD shoot
from the Models Guide

For a PFT or TFCD shoot, no money changes hands between the photographer and the model. Whilst you do not pay anything to the photographer, you can also not expect to be paid for any aspect of the shoot.

The photographer should pay all materials, processing and printing costs, any other expenses he incurs (e.g. travel) and, of course, put in his time for free. You should not have to pay any money to the photographer!

The only exception to this rule is when you want to buy additional prints or digital images, but you should always receive some free photographs.
The costs to the model are minimal. Expect to budget for expenses to have your hair and nails done. You may also need to provide a pre-agreed selection of your own clothes and bring your own make-up kit.

Usually, you will need to fund your own travel expenses, although a photographer may agree to contribute towards your travel.

Hair / make-up artists may or may not be available at the shoot.

As you have seen, a "free" shoot costs the photographer money. Be sure to put in all your energy and creativity.

What does the model get from a PFT or TFCD shoot?
from the Models Guide

How many prints or digital images

There are no hard rules as to how many prints or digital files a model gets from a shoot.

Think quality not quantity! Ten or twenty strong photographs in a portfolio are better than fifty mediocre ones. See also how many photos and what kind.

Choose a photographer who offers to put together a carefully edited selection of the best photographs from the shoot. Photographic work should not know the term "quick, cheap and dirty". A photographer should take pride in all his work and put the same amount of effort, time and care into personal work as into commissions.

Other benefits for models

The photographs are, of course, your fee. You may also look upon the actual amount of money saved compared to the cost of hiring a photographer as your fee.

It does happen that a photographer re-calls you for paid work if you are very talented or simply have the right look for a particular job.

A number of models have gained agency representation and modelling jobs on the strength of my photographs - I imagine this will be similar with other photographers.

How many photos in a portfolio and what kind?

If you are one of the lucky few to be taken on by a major agency, you do not need to worry about this question. Your agency will produce your first promotional shots for you (which should not cost you anything). After that, your portfolio will consist mainly of tear sheets.

For the purpose of this page we are talking about a model at the beginning of her career, either with a smaller, local model agency or working freelance.

Cheap and instant digital creation of images has made it possible to supply hundreds of photos relatively easily. I still come across aspiring models who boast about having received 100, 200 or more images from a shoot, paid or TFCD.

Receiving a very large number of images may make you feel important and it may impress your mates - and that's just about it. No photographer or agency wants to look at more than a handful of photographs. They do not have the time. Besides, once you have seen five headshots of a model, you have seen them all. After that, it is all repetition.
As your career progresses, you will have a larger selection of unique photographs to choose from and you may want to compile a showcase, which serves an entirely different purpose.

For a portfolio, think quality not quantity. Ten or twenty strong, unique photographs will serve you much better than fifty or 100 mediocre ones.

You can reasonably expect to receive a minimum of twelve images. For a beginner's portfolio, aim to have between 12 and 24 images in your portfolio.

Ask the photographer to put together a small selection of the best photographs from a shoot. You do not have the experience or the expertise to make that choice from a large selection.

Consider the potential shots for your portfolio side-by-side. Every photograph should be different, unique and memorable. Avoid repetitive poses, facial expressions and set-ups.

When building your first portfolio, do not use photographs from only one shoot. Aim to work with different photographers. The different styles will demonstrate your versatility as a model.

You want a combination of headshots and half, three quarter and full length shots.

Whether you need nude shots in your portfolio is discussed here.

Learn how to avoid rejection and, if it has already happened, find out why
from the Models Guide

The comments below refer to when I used to offer TFCD or PFT shoots (I no longer do).

Even though I offer TFCD shoots for models, there is no guarantee that I can accept your application. I regularly receive many more applications than I can consider.

What you receive from a shoot with me represents a value of several hundred Pounds. I read every application that I receive and you will get a reply.

I am very selective. In the application form, I ask you to tell me about yourself. I do not want to hear meaningless and boring statements. I want you to tell me what kind of person you are, what makes you tick and why you think that I should work with you.

You only make it past this first hurdle if I can see that you have thought about it and made an effort. I will only invite you to send photographs if what you tell me about yourself sounds promising.

A rejection does not mean that you did anything wrong. Most of the time, you are just not right for the job.

Sometimes, there are specific reasons for a rejection. These include:

* You did not provide (all) the information I asked for.

* You have either not read one line of the information I ask you to read, or you think that the rules should not apply to you (e.g. you are not the right age, live in the wrong place, do not meet certain other criteria I have set).

* You have absolutely nothing to say about yourself that makes me want to listen.

Are nude shots essential in a model's portfolio?

Not unless this is the style of modelling you want to do.

Many aspiring models who do not yet have any photographs to show, will put entirely unsuitable material on Internet modelling sites. A casual portrait snapshot, taken by a friend, is okay. A casual nude photograph is also okay (though not essential for an aspiring model without any experience). If you do not have any good nude snapshots, don't use them - you'll only look cheap. Wait until you have got something worth showing.

When you first get into modelling and perhaps post some images on an Internet modelling site, you are often asked what types of modelling you want to do. Remember that glamour is rarely glamorous and sometimes simply used as a term for top shelf magazine style.

Still, you should not be too prude as a model. Some of the most famous names have modelled see-through, topless or nude in magazines and on the catwalk. You may on occasion be expected to show some (or a lot of) flesh. As long as it is for a reason and in the right context, be prepared to do it.

Nude modelling

On all modelling assignments you should be prepared for at least some degree of nudity. It is a reasonable assumption that a model should not be all too prude. Still, it must be your choice.

For nude modelling, you will probably be a freelance model. Requirements vary. See also: life modelling.

Nude modelling in art and art photography

Nudes, artistic nudes, fine art nudes or simply body or figure is usually an artistic interpretation of the human body. Often very innocent, it can also be extremely explicit and sexually aggressive if it helps the artist get his or her message across. Whatever it is you are asked to do, even if you find it shocking at first, is never to titillate, but to aid artistic expression.

The question whether it is art or pornography is difficult to answer, especially as there is no universally accepted definition of what constitutes art and what separates art from craft or even pornography.

Pornography is commonly defined as the representation of the human body with the aim of sexual arousal. Then again, a work of art could have sexual arousal as its central theme.

Consider this: Some of Egon Schiele's (Austrian painter; 1890 - 1918) work is extremely explicit, sexually stimulating and was considered pornographic at the time. The same can be said for some of Gustav Klimt's (Austrian painter; 1862 - 1918) work, particularly his drawings. And yet, both are today considered to be among the greatest, most important artists.

Other types of nude modelling

There are many more types of nude work with even more names, which have nothing in common with artistic interpretation: adult, hardcore, open leg, Continental, boy/girl, girl/girl, boy/boy, etc., often simply referred to (rightly or not) as pornography. I cannot tell you much about this type of work because it is not my field.

The more explicit the work you are considering, the more difficult it is for you to say no if you do not want to do something.

Be careful when considering photo shoots that involve (foreign) travel. The offer of a few weeks in sunny California (or wherever) may be tempting but you may find yourself grounded in the middle of nowhere with your passport and return flight ticket confiscated, which makes you very vulnerable.

The type of nude modelling which is found on page 3 and in boys' magazines is covered under glamour modelling.

Photographer participation

Generally speaking, the photographer should make photographs, not participate in them. The problematic issue of photographer participation is discussed here.

Nude means no clothes

If you decide to do nude modelling, it means that you are not wearing any clothes. Sounds obvious?

You cannot model nude but, at the same time, not want to show this or that part of your body. Favourite body parts that aspiring nude models want excluded from their nudity are bottom, breasts and nipples. If you model nude, it's all of you.

The term "implied nude" is a favourite with aspiring models who fancy the idea but promptly get frightened by their own courage.

It is also nonsensical. As we are all nude under our clothes, we would all be doing implied nudity all the time. You are either nude or not. There is no such thing as implied nude.

The artist may decide to partly cover you, but as a nude model you have to offer your whole body.

Conclusions

Make up your mind what you are prepared to do, then discuss and agree with the photographer in advance and in detail what is expected of you - and stick to it.

If you submit photos to one of the top agencies, do not include any nude shots.

Becoming a Model

Different Types of Modelling

Fashion Modelling

High fashion models have strong and distinctive features. Very striking, exotic looks are popular.

Runway
A model has to bring a designer's clothes to life, and display them to their best advantage. The requirements for this type of modelling are the most stringent - models tend to be very tall and slim, and are able to move well in clothes. This is highly-paid work, and one of the most effective ways to gain exposure.

Catalogue
Generally, catalogue models are picked for a project because they represent the ideal of the market segment for which that catalogue is targeted. Often this is the classic beauty - tall, slender, healthy, and beautiful - but requirements can be fairly flexible. Catalogue modelling usually pays well because of the volume of photos that must be taken.

Fashion Print
This is fashion and beauty for print advertising. It can be display ads or collateral print materials. This is the most demanding work to get but pays the best because of usage and exclusives. These are the ads that can make or break a designer's reputation. With these ads it is very important that the concept, photo, and model work perfectly to convey the 'image' that is wanted.

Editorial
The model works for a particular publication to produce photographs to illustrate articles and editorials. The physical requirements are often less strict than those for High Fashion modelling, and editorial experience opens doors. This work is very eagerly sought after by fashion models because of the exposure it provides. For this reason the pay rates can be quite low, but the payoff for this type of work is that it provides tear sheets for your portfolio that will help you get further work.

Fashion Editorial
This includes magazines from Vogue and Elle to Bliss and Sugar. Requirements tend to differ according to the style and target audience of the magazine. For a glossy, high fashion publication such as Vogue, physical requirements will be quite strict, along the lines of catwalk work, whereas for a teen magazine like Bliss they will be more flexible.

'Lad Mag' Editorial
This type of editorial work could be compared to glamour modelling, as it often incorporates a sexual theme and limited clothing! Height is generally immaterial, but a slender, toned physique is important and curves are popular.

General Interest Editorial
This includes magazines on computing, health, collectibles, and hobbies. Height and build requirements are often quite relaxed in comparison to high fashion modelling.

Glamour Modelling

Glamour modelling is modelling for photos with a sexual theme. It does not necessarily refer to top-shelf publications. It includes clubwear, swimwear and lingerie as well as nudity - implied or actual, top or full. Some Figure and Art modelling, typically artistic nude photography, is included in the Glamour Modelling category. Because of the broad scope encompassed in the term it's always as well to clarify carefully beforehand what you are and are not prepared to do, when putting yourself forward for a glamour shoot.

A curvy figure, larger breasts and good looks tend to be an asset in this type of modelling. Rates of pay can be quite good for glamour modelling.

Commercial Modelling

Product
The purpose of the photo is to advertise a product, and the model is used to show how the product is used. Also, model may be used to convey an image about a product. The physical requirements and look for commercial product modelling can vary a great deal. It all depends on the image or story you are trying to convey. This is where character models are used.

Lifestyle
Models are used in photos showing a period of life or doing something in life to advertise a company or idea rather than a physical product. The models are used to act out some concept or idea of life. The physical requirements, age, size, etc. can vary greatly, but it tends to be the 'beautiful people' that are used. An aspect of commercial lifestyle modelling is commercial corporate modelling, where the photo has a business theme.

Product Demo & Trade Show
The idea is that stores or trade show exhibitors want someone attractive that people will be drawn to. When you are starting out this pays better then any regular job and it can really build your confidence around people.

Character Modelling

Some jobs require models with an everyday look, such as a mechanic, grocery clerk, schoolteacher, librarian, little old lady, and so on. Character models rarely become household names, but this is an extremely lucrative field if you've got the right look.

Photographic Modelling

Like models, photographers need a portfolio, which they must constantly update as they develop new skills or keep up with fashion trends. Occasionally, professional photographers agree to do test shoots of established models with good portfolios. Even though there is no pay involved, these test shoots can lead to well-paying opportunities for the model. Advanced amateur photographers are usually willing to pay an experienced model, for helping them to improve their skills

Test Shoots and Prints for Time

About Test Shoots

As an aspiring model, you need to have photos. Photos are needed for your marketing materials - portfolio, comp card and website. Also, very importantly, you need to have experience working in front of the camera. As you do more shoots you will gradually pick up how to move from one pose to the next without direction. Another reason for testing frequently is that you build contacts. This is a business which is driven by who-knows-whom: where who you know - or to be more precise, who knows you - is important. If you conduct yourself professionally on a test shoot, you will be remembered and hopefully recommended.

If a photographer wants to try out a new creative idea, test some new equipment or film, build up his portfolio with new styles or techniques, or just wants to practice, he will need to fix up a test shoot. This is where the volunteer model comes in. The key to this type of work - also known as 'prints for time' or PFT (or even TFP!) - is that no money changes hands. The photographer gets the time of a model free and the model gets copies of the resulting pictures - by exchanging services both parties get images for their portfolio and gain experience.

Beginner photographers will be eager to offer PFT work to models while they are learning. On the face of it this seems like a great idea, but there are a few things that need to be taken into consideration. Obviously beginner photographers are still learning about the art of taking pictures, so the quality of work may not be that good - or technical problems may mean that you end up with nothing. But this by no means indicates that it is not worthwhile to do test shoots with amateur photographers. When you are starting out, any chance you have to get in front of the camera and see some results is valuable. It is a prime opportunity to gain some experience and experiment with poses, expressions, make-up and wardrobe to find out what works for you and discover your 'look'. And you never know, he might hit on something which will produce an amazing photograph for your portfolio (probably more by accident than design, but hey, what difference does it make in the long run?).

Finding Test Shoots

A model agency will often try and help find you test shoots, but if you are working independently it is up to you to track down your own.

One way of finding photographers is on the web. Some that I have worked with are linked on my links page, along with some photographer directories. Locate a photographer in your area and, if you like the look of their work, contact them to enquire about test shoots. There are also several online message boards where aspiring models can make contact with photographers.

Another method would be to turn to the yellow pages and try calling around the professional photographers in your area. Of course, not everyone can afford to shoot for free, but it doesn't hurt to ask! If none of the pro photographers in your area are available for free test shoots you might want to try some amateurs and students. Try your local community college or art college and post a notice on their bulletin board to say that you are looking for test shoots. Local camera clubs and photographic societies, too, may have amateur photographers who are looking for subjects to photograph.

What You Need to Know

This information is based on Stuart Randle's guide to PFT.

Check in advance exactly what the style of the shot is to be and what clothes and props to bring. The testing photographer will often have a certain style in mind. This may not be what the model has in mind for her portfolio but again, all experience is good.

Agree beforehand what to expect at the end of the shoot. Arrange how many prints you will receive, and in what format. Some photographers have started offering the photographs on a CD, which is good for such purposes as e-mailing out or placing on a website, but may be unsuitable for printing. It is recommended that you at least get a selection of the very best pictures in 10x8 format. Know whether the photographer will be working in colour or black & white (this also helps when you are doing your make-up etc). Will you be required to pay a nominal fee towards the cost of printing your copies?

If you are expected to sign a model release form, check it through carefully. It is quite usual to be asked to sign such a form, but it could be wise to wait until the end of the shoot to do so. It usually removes the requirement for a model to be either consulted or paid for the reproduction of the picture. Restrictions can be introduced, so that the photos can be used only for a specified purpose, with a condition that permission be requested if the photographer wishes to have more flexibility in usage. At this stage the terms can be re-evaluated. The copyright always remains the property of the photographer.

Lastly, be as professional as possible even though you're not being paid - and you might even get asked back!

Learning How to Model

Working on Pose

This is a skill which you will develop naturally as you get more experience in front of the camera. A good photographer will usually help direct you into position also. One good way of working on pose is to start is doing activities that teach you how to move you body gracefully, like dance or gymnastics. Modelling books will usually contain guides on 'standard' poses (the set of basic poses are based on the five positions of ballet, apparently). Over time, a number of book reviews will be included on the store pages, describing the usefulness of a number of modelling advice manuals.

Try saving photos from the web, catalogues or magazines, where you feel particularly drawn to the model's pose. Pay particular attention to the tilt of the model's head and the position of her hands and feet. Practise these for yourself in front of a mirror, and try to recreate them for the camera when the opportunity arises.

In posing, learn to work with the clothes you wear. It helps to know how a fabric will drape or move when you are modelling it. It helps Know the lines of a garment so you can accentuate them and not break the line of movement. For fashion work particularly, you are selling the clothes. Practice showing important features of the clothing. Show off pockets, collar, belt, how the garment moves, what ever makes the garment interesting you want to call attention to it.

Another point that is important to understand is how much of you will show in the picture. Working full length is quite different from doing a tight head shot. When the camera is zoomed on your face, it may look best to twist the rest of your body unnaturally into an exaggerated position which would look plain daft if it were a full body shot but just adds atmosphere when it is just your head showing!

Gradually, looking at photos of yourself from shoots, you will get to know which poses work for you in the most flattering way.

Getting the Expression

To practice the facial expressions you will use when you are placed in front of a camera, first think of a number of different emotions, e.g. pensive, happy, sexy, wistful, excited. When you have in mind several emotions, think about situations that would make you react with each one. Then you will be able to place yourself in the situation as you practice personifying the emotions in the mirror. Once you have enough practice to be able to conjure up any given emotion on cue (this may take a while), you can try using them in front of a camera. This is where a digital or polaroid camera comes in very handy! Get a friend to take photos of you, and look at the pictures afterwards to see what 'works' and what looks forced and unnatural - make a note of what you need to work on.

The most expressive feature on a person's face is their eyes, so an important thing to remember about facial expression - though it might seem obvious - is to open your eyes. Unless specifically directed by the photographer, make sure that your eyes are wide open. You can test this by looking at two photos side by side, identical other than a tiny difference in the wideness of your eyes, and you will know which is the better.

When posing in a professional shoot, it is important to keep in mind what a photograph is saying. Different photographic styles require very different facial expressions. For glamour work, concentrate on a 'sexy' expression. In a fashion editorial shoot you may be required to look like you're having fun, or sophisticated and glamourous. For catalogue work the pictures may need a neutral, contented look.

Wardrobe

When you are starting out, for your own portfolio and composite cards etc, you will need your own working wardrobe. You can either consult a modelling advice tome on what this should include, or you could use common sense! Obviously pick flattering garments, and a range of different shapes and styles.

The types of garments you have in your wardrobe will, of course, reflect the type of modelling you want to get into. If you are looking to get into glamour then a good selection of lingerie, swimwear and sexy clubwear is necessary; if you want to make it in fashion then more trendy items are appropriate. But there are some basics which probably every model ought to have in her working wardrobe:

* Simple black dress
* High heel shoes - high heels lengthen the legs and improve posture, and are a must for models
* Bikini - for full-length figure shots for your portfolio
* Business suit - for interviews as well as modelling
* Lingerie sets - including basques and bustiers if possible. Also, thongs are often preferred.

Your wardrobe will of course contain many more items than this, probably including an evening gown, casual outfit, stockings, short dress, denim jacket and accessories, but these are the absolute basics which I would consider to be essentials.

Again, as you model more you will get to know which clothes work best for you and can ensure that you take only the most flattering garments with you to shoots. This is a learning process for me too, so extra knowledge will be included here as I gain it.

Effects

This of course depends a lot on the photographer as well as the model, but it is important to remember the results of different effects and photographic techniques.

Different lighting can be used to create an entirely different mood for the photograph. Soft light produces a gentle image; dramatic lighting techniques result in dramatic photos. You may eventually find that a certain type or direction of light may make you look better. For example, I believe that a side lighting technique brings out my facial bone structure quite well, while an even, 'butterfly' lighting effect makes my features look flatter.

To produce a more interesting, unconventional image, a photographer might try different angles of shot. He might stand up a ladder and look down on you to shoot the picture, or he might crouch on the floor (note: if he does then its probably best for you to be looking up, to avoid a double-chin effect!).

Building Your Portfolio

To pay or not to pay?

When you are first starting out, paying for a professional photographer is possibly the quickest way to get good quality shots for your portfolio. It also helps get you experience in front of the camera for the future, which is a bonus. However, it may well be possible to do some professional work on a 'prints for time' basis, if a photographer feels you have modelling potential. This type of arrangement is mutually beneficial to photographer and model, and there are some great amateur photographers who are willing to work on a PFT basis and who can provide some good photos afterwards.

When not to pay: If an agency agrees to take you on provided that you pay their photographer to put together a portfolio. A good portfolio cannot be created in a single session - it takes time to develop. And a good agency will take you on if they think they will make money out of you from assignments - not from charging for portfolios.

Only ever pay if you feel sure that a photographer can do a good job - always ask to see plenty of samples of their work in advance, and talk through with the photographer what you hope to achieve through the shoot.

The Photos

To start with, a few technical shots. A good, clean head shot or two (with and without make-up) and some full-length shots to show your body.

For the bulk of the portfolio, variety is of utmost importance - the prime objective of this portfolio is to display your versatility as a model and advertise your 'look'. A collection of ten shots of you wearing the same clothes is not sufficient. You should aim to get photos by several different photographers. Every photographer has his own individual style, and using several shots from the same photographer will limit the range of your portfolio. It needs to show how several different photographers see you and how they capture your look. A selection of outfits and lingerie will also be necessary.

Another thing about portfolio work is that you need to work with photographers who shoot in the market you are aiming for. For fashion pictures you need a fashion photographer, not one who shoots portraits or weddings for example (good at that though they may be). That is also why you should be very careful of PFT offers: just because the photographer is legit and skilful does not mean you will get photos suitable for your book.

Ensure you pick only the very best pictures of you to include in your portfolio: those which show you at your best in every respect, face and figure. Be super self-critical, and do not be tempted to try and bulk it out with sub-standard pictures - they will do more harm than good because they bring down the overall quality of the portfolio, and as a result the general impression left will not be as good.

Tearsheets

Editorial work is so sought-after by models because of the prestige and the tearsheets it provides for portfolios. Of course, tearsheets are good evidence to include in a portfolio as they show the professional work a model has already done - and you get the endorsement of the brand name or magazine who published you.

Presentation

Whether you are building a portfolio in physical form or for publication on the web, presentation is important: it is the portfolio as a whole which represents you as a person, not just the images it contains. You must always keep in mind that the portfolio must have a professional appearance. You will be dealing with creative people who are very visually oriented, so if you want to be taken seriously as a professional model you must present yourself that way. And your portfolio must have a very clean professional look.

If you are producing a physical portfolio to take with you to castings and go-sees, ensure you are using a good quality album or case to contain your pictures. Portfolios come in two styles: open book (notebook form, to be carried around in a bag), and zip case (larger, with handles to be carried like a briefcase). Agencies will sometimes provide these for their models, but a plain black or dark-coloured one will do just fine. Portfolio case coverings can be made of leather, vinyl, cloth or even wood. Leather is the most durable, but expensive; vinyl is cheaper but will not stand up to as much. Cloth or wooden covers would tend to be used more for the aesthetics - to create an interesting appearance. In filling out your model book, try to use only good quality photos - in the sense of their physical quality as well as the picture itself - glossy photographs with clean edges give a far better impression to potential clients than dull, faded snaps with dog-eared corners.

Presentation is still just as important for online portfolios. A good, informative, user-friendly site will keep visitors longer - and give a better impression of you as a person - than a garish, hard-to-navigate site that takes ten minutes to load. The best online portfolios will include information such as vital statistics and a resume - links and other information can also be added. To minimise download time for the photo galleries it is often best to present pictures as thumbnails (like a photographic contact sheet), with links leading to an enlarged version.